We've all seen interesting deals for pre-owned watches online, often from random watch dealers on Instagram or on Chrono24 (the world's largest pre-owned watch platform). But how we do know if they are legitimate? How should we approach a dealer to check them out? How do we know if the watch is what they say it is? Similarly, if we're looking to sell a timepiece from our collection, should we ask a dealer for help? How do we know they can get us a good deal?

This Blog Post will help clear up many of the questions people have, help you build a relationship with a great watch dealer, and avoid some of the more disreputable parts of the pre-owned watch market.

What exactly is a watch dealer?

We only have interest in full-time established dealers who spend all day every day buying and selling watches. We want to see someone who has their own premises, a registered business address, and somewhere to meet clients. It's fine if they meet clients in a favoured bar or Members Club, but if that's the case then it's very important they have a proper registered business address and not just a PO box. They should have some social media presence and a professional looking website with high quality photographs. The more information they post about the watches on the website, the better.

We recommend running a mile from someone who has flipped a few Rolexes, is "selling for their friends" or claims to have a good deal on certain pieces somehow. Buying pre-owned safely takes patience and research, and any deal that seems to good to be true probably is.

What's the difference between a watch dealer and a platform?

Over the last 20 years, Chrono24 has become the largest online platform for pre-owned watches, and is composed of listings from every kind of seller; dealers, retailers, private individuals, and auction houses. Each seller needs careful evaluation on their own merits. Chronohunter is an interesting platform designed to match buyers and sellers designed for quick transactions for popular pieces. Their model has less transparency but is very well established. Other platforms like Watchfinder are simply large dealers with well-developed infrastructure behind them including their own authentication and servicing centre to ensure every watch is what is claimed.

The biggest difference is that it is difficult to build a personal relationship with them. Their volumes are high and they may not be able to give you the time you need to get confident in a watch. Similarly, they may not have time to fully research and describe a watch on their website, sometimes missing important details about condition or provenance.

How do I check out a watch dealer?

The simple answer is to take your time doing some research into the dealer themselves. Check out their website, their social media, their Google Profile and any reviews you can find. Next, you can start asking them some questions. Like our advice about buying watches online, the easiest way to establish someone's credibility is to see how they answer simple and difficult questions about a watch they are selling. If their answers are professional, thorough, and satisfying, then that is a good sign.

They should be willing to take the time to make sure you feel comfortable, rather than aiming for quick sales. Don't be afraid to search online for complaints, and you can ask the dealer what their returns policy is, how they deal with unsatisfied clients, when they last took a watch back, etc.

How do I know their watches are good quality?

The strategy here is to choose one of the watches they sell that is very popular and sold in many places, for example a Rolex Explorer or Omega Speedmaster. Then look at how they present the watch compared to others. Are the photographs standardised and high quality, showing every aspect of the watch? Is the information about the watch detailed and accurate? Have they given information on the provenance/history of the watch? Looking carefully at this information and asking follow up questions is the best way for you to gain confidence in both the dealer and the product.

What are the best dealers like?

Very simply, they are the most knowledgeable and the least interested in a quick sale. Finding a dealer who is happy for you to take your time, build a relationship, ask questions, and buy when you're ready is amazing. You would think most dealers would be like this but it's very much not the case, so when you meet the good ones you should be impressed.

As Stefano at Falco Watches in London said to us at a recent Event: "I'm not interested in you buying this watch, I'm interested in you buying your next ten watches from me". Dealers ultimately live and die by their reputation, and the good ones respect this more than anything else.

Do Watch Dealers do Certified Pre-Owned?

The establishment of Certified Pre-Owned schemes by various watch brands, including Rolex, Jaeger LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and soon Audemars Piguet is changing the pre-owned watch market. These brands are incentivising their own Authorised Dealer network to invest in selling pre-owned watches alongside new watches in order to increase the number of watches that are officially checked by the brands as authentic and fully serviced. There are two goals from the brand's perspective: firstly, to increase the number of authentic pre-owned watches clearly available to potential buyers; secondly, to control some of that market and earn money from being part of it. Independent platforms and dealers are specifically excluded from these programs and therefore do not sell Certified Pre-Owned watches in the same way, although they may sell a watch that has been through such a process previously.

There's an important caveat about Certified Pre-Owned that dealers can help you navigate. A watch can be certified as authentic as long as it contains all original parts, regardless of when those parts were added. A 1970s Rolex with a replacement dial, hands, or crown fitted decades later would pass certification, but a reputable dealer would never sell it as 'all original.'

Why should I ask a dealer to sell my watch?

Most dealers will certainly consider selling your watch for you, either by purchasing it directly or selling it on commission. They will also likely take it on part-exchange for another watch. Even if it's something they don't usually sell they will often consider it as they they have networks to move unusual pieces. For rarer pre-owned and vintage pieces we recommend contacting a couple of dealers to ask them if they'll sell it before you list it online or consign it to auction, as you may get a better price and pay lower fees.

Conclusion and our Favoured Dealers

At The Watch Collectors' Club we help our Members enjoy their collections including buying new additions and moving on timepieces they no longer want. We're happy to advise on any sales channel, and when it comes to watch dealers only recommend the very best. We're based in London and recommend Falco Watches, Kibble Watches, Somlo London, Subdial, and Vintage Watch Room, all of whom have showrooms in the City. They are well recommended by Members of our Community. We also recommend Watch Concierge Services in Kent, and Watch Brothers London (who meet clients in a Private Location).

Finally, if ever in doubt, remember the simple mantra "Buy the Seller, not the Watch" and that if something sounds too good to be true, it probably is.